A Longsword is composed of a pommel, a grip, a Guard/Cross, the strong, the weak and the Tip/Point.

The goal is to keep the weak line (line linking the too feet) the last frontal to the opponent. Bu as all motion comes from the center pf gravity, it should face the opponent. One should always keep one foot in front and one font in the back slightly turned.

• Basic step: move forward keeping one foot in front of the other
• Passing step: move forward while changing the foot order
• Switch step: switch feet order and control rotation without moving forward or backward
• Step-Pivot: go behind the opponent front line, 180° rotation and keeps the feet order

What you also call, being Proactive VS being Reactive or attacking a person in guard, in the middle of their attack, or to counter-attack/riposte

The Wolf School is more proactive/offensive.

The Eagle School is more reactive/defensive, to draw your opponent into attacking you, to get the opportunity to counter the attack and hit that opening.

Going Through an attack means to advance quickly so as to position one’s body close to one’s opponents’ so as to void an attack at them.

Rushing In is similar, but when you Rushing In, you don’t wait for the attack, you simple close in to pre-empt the attack.

Both of these tactics will result in a grappling situation.

Pulsing is when you rap your opponent’s blade when you are crossing swords. This can be done as a distraction, or to quickly and surprisingly move your opponent’s blade out of your way to take advantage of the opening it gives.

Intercepting is when you target the blade of an incoming sword with a strike of your own. The counter to a pulsing or intercepting movement by your opponent is the idea of Mutating.

Mutating is not like Feinting . If you and your opponent are both in Plow guard and he pulses your blade, you mutate that by taking the momentum of your sword from that pulse and using it to generate power for a cut or thrust, effectively taking advantage of that pulse. Mutating can also be done against an opponent who intercepts your sword with his own.

A pursuit is like a filling in of a contraction your opponent makes. For example if you and your opponent are both in Plow guard, and your opponent raises his sword, if you are perceptive enough to catch it instantly, you can pursue his blade and this gives you the initiative and a good opportunity to cut or thrust against him.

At any time when your sword and your opponent’s are in contact for more than an instant, this is called a bind. Binding is the action of attaining this state, and the art of fighting whilst the swords are in contact is called Winding.

Whenever the two swords are in a bind, there are two ways you can maintain it, and we call these Being Weak or being Strong. Neither is better than the other, and the one will counter the other. If when you bind your opponent pushes hard on your sword with his, he is being Strong at the bind. To counter this be weak at the sword and this will put the swords into motion. Capitalize on this and you will strike him. The reverse is also true. If your opponent is weak at the sword(i.e. not firm), then you can manipulate his sword with your own into a position where you can thrust or slice him.

The ability to perceive if your opponent is strong or weak at the bind is called Feeling.

Winding is a dynamic state, but keeping in mind your primary guards will help you greatly. Due to the nature of the Roof Guard and the Fool Guard they are unsuitable for winding. But remember the inherently offensive capabilities of both the Ox guard and the Plow Guard – Both threaten your opponent with the tip of your sword while simultaneously closing off one of your openings and allowing you to deflect incoming thrusts. Whenever you wind, make sure that you are always in either Plow or Ox, on either side, and be sure to transition between them as the situation demands.

Being in a grapple almost completely precludes your opponent’s ability to cut you. This is prime time to get a hold on your opponent to control his blade and take him off balance to throw him to the ground, or to manoeuvre your sword in to run him through. Other options include disarming your foe or getting him into a joint-lock.

When in grappling distance, the long blade of your sword may prohibit you from utilizing it to it’s full potential. This is why it’s a good idea to remember your sword’s pommel. The word pommel is there to balance the sword, but it also serves as a nice clubbing weapon in it’s own right. Remember the potential of your pommel, and also your elbows and knees whenever you grapple at the sword.

The thumb and forefinger form a sort of 'v' shape on the handle. With this grip, the handle lies upon a line in the hand that connects from the outside bottom of them palm to the base of the forefinger. The pinky finger should grip firmly, while the other fingers get progressively more relaxed, with the thumb and forefinger being most relaxed. This is done with both hand, resulting in what is a firm and strong grip, that is also very flexible and relaxed. Try to avoid using a 'club' grip, i.e. one where the grip lies perfectly perpendicular to the forearm and is held tightly with all the fingers. Not only will this inhibit the range of motion of the sword and cause your cutting potential to drop, but it is also one that I find to build tension in the forearms, which a good opponent with take considerable advantage of.

The sword is rotated 90 degrees to the previous grip. This grip is important because it facilitates much more fluid movements in 3 of the 5 master-cuts. The thumb of the top hand lays on the flat of the blade near the cross. Experimenting with this grip will reveal how it aids in the Crooked, Cross and Squinting.

Primary guard:

• Plow Guard: cross at hip level, blade pointing to the opponent neck and face
• Roof Guard: cross above head/shoulder, the blade vertical and tilted a little back
• Fools Guard: like plow guard but blade pointing at the ground
• Oxs Guard: cross above shoulder, the blade pointing the opponent's face

Secondary guard:

• Tail guard: blade on the side, sunlight back, the edge threatening the opponent (Near Guard)
• Side Guard: similar to near guard but blade perpendicular to the line of attack, the flat facing the opponent
• Long Point: arms extended the sword in line with the fully extended arms.
• Crown: hilt at face level with the blade vertical and oriented at angle
• Hanging Point: cross at shoulder level with blade pointing forward and down 'hanging'

Plow is a very hard guard to penetrate. A well assumed Plow guard prevents your foe from attacking you until he either:

• a) moves his body, creating an opening for you, or
• b) moves your sword, giving you the chance to take advantage of this movement.

It is a good place to start a duel, from which to begin appraising the skill of your foe.

This guard is assumed with the feet slightly closer together than the Plow Guard. The reason for this is that it facilitates taking a passing step to accompany a strike - thus adding more power to the cut. The blade should be near vertical, angled slightly back. All 5 master cuts originate from this guard in their basic form.

One is not a fool to assume this guard, as you may think, but rather, it lures one's adversary to attack what they believe to be a fool, for this guard appears very open. The standard view is that this guard deceives an adversary into attacking what appears to be open.

Being the end point of 2 of the 5 master strikes, one does need to be very familiar with how this guard feels. It is an end point of an action, and not a guard to be maintained. Indeed, this is a difficult position to fight from, though as you will see from some of our drills, it has its uses. Generally, I don't like to maintain this guard for too long, though, sometimes it is a good way to see how your opponent reacts to it.

Either edge can be threatening the opponent, however it is usually easier to threaten with the long edge on your right side, and the short edge on your left side. The sword has a longer distance to travel and so is easier to see coming when cutting into an opponent's blade as an interception - thus it is more difficult to use in this manner. This guard is still very necessary however, as it is the position into which downward cuts travel, and the initial position for upward cuts from below.

This is the position into which one thrusts, and through which a fully extended cut should pass. Many fighters do not extend fully in their cuts. This is sometimes appropriate when the cut is meant to intercept another sword, or catch an opponent moving in. But for attacking, it is both safer and more powerful to extend to the fullest. If your opponent does not extend fully, and you do, this gives you a range advantage, even if you are the smaller or shorter combatant.

It's use is in collecting an incoming cut, or pulling up an incoming thrust. This guard has good potential in also deflecting an opponent's sword so that one can move in to grapple. Apart from the above mentioned uses however, it should be generally avoided as a deflection, as it does not offer any immediate offensive follow up apart from the aforementioned entering and grappling opportunity.

This guard is similar to the Ox guard. If you assume an Ox guard, and then let the whole sword 'hang' somewhat forward and down, with the point dipping at a slightly steeper angle, this is hanging point. It can be assumed on either side, but feels much more comfortable, relaxed and natural when held on the left side. A skilled fighter in this guard is devastatingly hard to hit. The position the sword is in this guard can easily close off any of the 4 openings. This is a good guard from which to initiate a bind or grapple.

• Strike of Wrath(Zornhau): to intercept any downward cuts, strong transition from the Roof guard into the Plow Guard
• Crooked Strike(Krumphau): counters most attacks from the oxs guard and any thrusts launched against you. It is a strong transition from either Roof guard or side guard into a side guard on the other side of the body.
• Cross Strike(Zwerchau): counters most attacks from the Roof guard. It is a strong transition to the oxs guard from either the roof guard or an ows guard on the other side, and strikes horizontally.
• Squinting strike(Schielhau): counters most attacks from the Roof guard, it is also a strong transition from plough guard into oxs guard, but is different from the Cross strike in that it strikes vertically.
• Scalp strike(Scheitelhau): counters most attacks from the Fools guard. It is not a transition from one guard into another, but rather a very high strike from guard targeting the scalp or crown of the opponents face with the tip of the sword.

It is any strike made such that instead of driving through in a complete arc, the blade goes just far enough to threaten the opponent's face with the tip of the sword. Such a strike serves two purposes - It intercepts an incoming thrust or cut negating it, and it immediately threatens the opponent. The latter of the two is often taken for granted, but should not be overlooked. The ideal finish to this strike positions us with the Initiative.

This is best done by taking another attacking action - A thrust, a wind, or a grapple are all equally effective. Clearly a thrust is most obvious in this position.

This strike is particularly effective at countering an incoming downward diagonal or horizontal cut. It is important to make sure that the pommel points clearly at your centre, as this will ensure that the point stays pointed clearly at your opponent.

In the basic form of this strike, the sword moves in a manner like a 'windshield wiper' - in an arc in front of you going sideways. From a technical standpoint, this is done by strongly transitioning from Roof Guard (at the shoulder) or Side Guard into a Side Guard on the other side of the body at thesame time as one takes a passing step, or a switch step. It is important to note that this strike should be with the long edge when striking to your left, and should hit with the short edge when striking to your right.

The target of this strike should be the extended hands or forearms of your opponent while he is in the Long Point guard.

Since Long Point is a transitional guard most often seen in the middle of a cut or at the full extension of a thrust, you must time this strike along with your opponent's actions.

This strike, like the Strike of Wrath, should also be followed up quickly so as not to give up the initiative. From the askew position in which you are in, the easiest follow up is to cut straight forward into your opponent's face or chest.

If your strike lands over his sword, you can still make this movement, or you can wind. If your sword is too early and lies under his sword, this is a more difficult position, from which winding or moving in to grapple is best.

One executes a Cross Strike by transitioning from either Roof Guard (at the shoulder) or Ox Guard into an Ox guard on the other side of the body. This should be accompanied by a step, but doesn't have to. This movement in particular among the movements one makes with a sword should originate with the hips, as this will allow a very quick movement that is simultaneously powerful. One can sometimes get away with poor use of the hips with other sword movements (though one shouldn't), but with this one it is imperative to use the hips well, or else the strike is useless. The target of this strike should be the head of your opponent, and the sword should strike horizontally with the short edge when struck from the right to the left, and with the long edge when striking from the left to the right.

The nature of this strike is that by moving into the Ox guard, you close off your upper opening on the side that you transition the guard into. This is perfect for collecting and setting aside an incoming strike.

As mentioned, a very good follow up attack to a Cross Strike is another Cross Strike. One can chain them together in this way, and it is very powerful to do so, as you can overwhelm an opponent in this way.

Interestingly, the counter to a Cross Strike is another Cross Strike - if your opponent attempts a Cross Strike, perform your own Cross Strike under his, and you will be protected from his strike, and he will be hit.

With practice, one can use this strike to hit lower in the body - mixing up the targets of your Cross Strike is another good way to get a good hit. It is important to note, that when striking a Cross Strike low, one should still hold the hilt high in front of the head.

The Squinting strike is related to the Cross Strike in execution, but differs in it's target. In their basic form, both begin in Roof Guard and transition into the Ox guard on the opposite side of the body. But where the Cross Strike offsets an incoming attack at the same moment as the offensive strike is made, the Squinting strike initially collects an incoming strike, sets it aside and places your blade on the inside of the opponents, then your blade moves in to strike.

Also, it is important to note that a Cross Strike strikes horizontally, where a Squinting strike strikes downward. Both are aided by the 90 degree grip.

Squinting strike is unusual in that if you strike it from your right side, your target should be the right side of your opponents head (or his right trapezius muscle). Those with quick minds will realize that this means your sword crosses over and strikes the far target (as the left of your opponent is a nearer target). This is done because it is harder to evade, and also affords you more leverage the more your opponent's blade is set aside.

One executes a Scalp strike by raising the hands high and pushing up with the bottom hand which will lever the blade of your sword downward. Your target is the front-top of your opponent’s head (his fore-head or even his face will do also). Done properly, this will keep your sword far enough away from the Fool guard to preclude his ability to intercept it easily.

It is important however, to keep in mind that one must step off line somewhat when making this strike. This is to help void any thrusts or upward cuts your opponent makes while you execute this strike, as if he tries to Go Through your attack and move inward, this stepping off the line will keep you out of his attack’s way.

• RPG combats mechanics (initiative, strenght, dexterity, wound, …)
  • fluid combat https://thefantasytrip.game/news/2018/june/basic-combat-in-the-fantasy-trip/
• Realistic combat technique
  • Sword
    • sword fighting https://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/support-files/trueswordsman.pdf
    • sword fighting https://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/sword-fighting.html
    • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvu-XUu2ytY&list=PLho45QUTGtE8rOLhgovvWZwwf2DII7bk7
  • The different weapons
    • http://pseudoboo.blogspot.com/2016/07/fundamentals-comparison-of-melee-weapons.html
    • https://www.writeups.org/heavy-melee-weapons-rpg/
    • https://zombie.fandom.com/wiki/Melee_Weapons
    • https://forums.rpgmakerweb.com/index.php?threads/how-to-better-diversify-melee-weapons-swords-spears-axes.43369/
    • the chart I used http://driftwood.tripod.com/rpg/weapons_chart.html
    • another chart http://paratime.ca/d20/pulp/weapons.html